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Being a big fan of the Gerald Genta-designed 1970’s watch classics, I was extremely gratified to see Patek Philippe come out with a new Nautilus collection. The dials look fantastic, the new Ref. 5980 Chronograph has a super-cool new Patek Philippe movement, and the subtle re-design of the case “ears” on all the models is nicely done, retaining the idiosyncratic Nautilus look, while adding perhaps a bit more elegance. I think Patek has missed the boat on this point, however: with the exception of the smallest model, Ref. 5800/1, Patek has chosen to dispense with the classic monocoque case construction of the original Nautilus. The monocoque case (one piece case with unified caseback, plus the bezel; the movement is inserted through the dial side) was an inherent part of the Nautilus mystique. Taking the route of a simpler-to-manufacture three piece design (back, middle piece, and bezel) may be efficient from a manufacturing standpoint, but it definitely comes at the cost of some elite charm. And after all, elite charm is a big part of why anyone buys a stainless steel watch whose price BEGINS in the near-$20,000 price point. So, if you want a Nautilus watch built like the original, you have to purchase the Ref. 5800, which may be a problem for men with larger wrists. Why, oh why, couldn’t Patek Philippe have at least made the larger Ref. 5711 the same way? (Especially since the Ref. 5711 would be the spiritual descendant of the original Nautilus Jumbo, the watch which started the whole Nautilus dynasty?) A great watch could have been even better. Considering the asking price of this watch, and the long waiting list to get one, this is hardly an unfair question.