Watch Collecting: A Perspective From One Who Tried, And Failed

Watch collecting is an interesting pursuit, and can mean very different things to different people.  There is no “right answer”–only what works for that individual.  Some people enjoy a rotation of 3-10 watches, happily going to the safety deposit bank or the safe to pull stuff off the winder.  Others keep a few timepieces on hand they wear regularly, and leave the others–sometimes many others–wrapped up in plastic for posterity or investment purposes (I’m thinking of the Patek crowd here, particularly)  Then there are the fanatics for vintage Rolex or Panerai limited editions, who enjoy the hyper-minutiae and sharing a latest rare acquisition with their equally obsessed buddies at get-togethers where festivity levels are just slightly less than that of a Roman bacchanalia.   Continue Reading… »

A Plethora Of Watchmaking Seals: Geneva Seal, Patek Philippe Seal, Fleurier Seal, And More

With authenticity and substance becoming ever more important in the messages that watch companies seek to convey to their customers, exclusive seals promising performance, finishing standards, and more are multiplying rapidly.  From Bedat & Co with their AOSC certificate covering the Swiss origin of parts and assembly, to Patek Philippe, which created waves at Baselworld 2009 with their announcement that the Poincon de Geneve (Geneva Seal) is being ditched for a new, and more demanding in-house Patek Philippe Seal, its clear that brands want to differentiate themselves from their competition more than ever. Continue Reading… »

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle Manual-Winding: Dress Watch Perfection From SIHH 2009

Back in August, I expressed my adoring sentiments for the superbly lovely Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle watch.  It hardly seemed possible, but the venerable manufacturer has made a superlative luxury timepiece even better in 2009.  I am of course referring to the new manual-winding version of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle 38mm watch, which was just unveiled at the SIHH exhibition in Geneva this past week.  

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Vacheron Constantin Successfully Enlarges The Malte Tonneau Chronograph

I’m not normally a fan of enlarging appealing watch designs simply for the sake of making a bigger watch–but, sometimes the result is indeed an improvement.  Vacheron Constantin’s new Malte Tonneau Chronograph watch (Ref. 49180) is a good example.  While the established 36mm model is  certainly distinguished and elegant, the broader case of the newcomer gives the tonneau-shaped Malte watch design a more potent, masculine presence.  

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Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921–A Most Charming Time Machine

The just-announced Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 is one of the most charming (and pleasingly eccentric) dress timepieces I have encountered in some time.  A surprisingly faithful reinterpretation of an historical wristwatch which Vacheron Constantin introduced in the early 20th century,  the “Historiques American 1921″ abounds with exquisite details.   Continue Reading… »

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Watch: Serious Competition For Patek’s Calatrava

Among modern dress watches, my newest object of desire is Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Traditionnelle.  Since regretfully selling off a rose gold Patek Philippe Calatrava (Ref. 5107) a couple years ago, I have been nursing a recurring longing to re-acquire a precious metal strap watch with impeccable horological credentials, timeless design, and an elegance versatile enough to allow for everyday wear.  This particular Vacheron Constantin watch–introduced in 2007–is near perfection in each one of these criteria.

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Vacheron Constantin Skeleton Watches: An Industry Standard For A Rare, Exquisite Art

The exceptional art of open working mechanical movements is practiced by few manufacturers these days.  Of the few companies which can practice this rare technique at the highest level, Vacheron Constantin is considered by many to be the best in the field.  Noted for their intricacy, beauty and hand craftsmanship, each Vacheron Constantin skeleton movement is a unique work of art, which takes shape under the hand of a skilled and irreplaceable artisan.  Each delicate bridge structure is carefully engraved by hand, so that even if Continue Reading… »

Vacheron Constantin Quai de l’Ile Watches–”Watch Out, Patek Philippe!”

In a world where luxury items seem to become increasingly democratized and commoditized, its a relief to find that there are brands who still cater to the art of custom design.  Vacheron Constantin is one such brand, which this year has revealed their stunning Quai de l’Ile watch collection.  In a move which would no doubt please the founders of the ancient Geneva brand which has long been associated with nobility and royalty, this collection offers more than 400 bespoke options.  

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Vacheron Constantin Malte Perpetual Calendar Watch Embodies The Demanding Motto Of Founders

The house of Vacheron Constantin produces some of the most exquisite complicated watches in existence. Having had well over two centuries to perfect their sense of style, the legendary Geneva manufacture carries on the proud traditions of Jean-Marc Vacheron and Francois Constantin, who built the brand around the demanding motto of “Faire mieux si possible, ce qui est toujours possible!” (”Do better when possible, and it is always possible”)

One of the many exquisite offerings from Vacheron Constantin, is this Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater watch from the Malte collection. I love the classical silvered dial, with its applied gold roman numerals and slim baton hands—while not the easiest type of perpetual calendar display to read, the classical layout this watch has mirrors that of the brand’s pocket watches from the late 19th and early 20th century. The 41mm gold Malte case is superbly elegant, yet has a rakish flair with its distinctive, intricate lugs. Vacheron Constantin minute repeaters are often praised for their extraordinary quality, and the large gold case should optimize the volume of the chimes nicely.

Vacheron Constantin Watches Pay Tribute To Legendary Explorers With Phenomenal Enamelwork

The Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’art watches are some of the most beautiful works of horological art available today.  The name of the collection alludes to the practice of wondrous artisanal crafts, such as the skeletonization and engraving of movements, exquisite gem setting, or enameling.

Among my favorite from this superb assemblage of Vacheron Constantin watches, is the “Tribute to great explorers” series.  These watches are presented in two interpretations, both of which show the timeby means of an ingenious rotating system of hour satellites borne on a maltese cross; these discs traverse the stationary minute scale which is on the lower part of the two-piece enamel dial.

The dials of these Vacheron Constantin timepieces are a particularly spectacular demonstration of the ancient and trying art of grand feu enameling, whereby layers of variously colored vitreous enamels are painstakingly applied and repeatedly baked in repeated kiln firings to create a design.  Incredibly intricate, these dials portray the historic routes of 15th century explorer Ferdinand Magellan, or Zheng He, the Chinese mariner who extensively explored the Indian Ocean during the Ming Dynasty.