Watch Collecting: A Perspective From One Who Tried, And Failed

Watch collecting is an interesting pursuit, and can mean very different things to different people.  There is no “right answer”–only what works for that individual.  Some people enjoy a rotation of 3-10 watches, happily going to the safety deposit bank or the safe to pull stuff off the winder.  Others keep a few timepieces on hand they wear regularly, and leave the others–sometimes many others–wrapped up in plastic for posterity or investment purposes (I’m thinking of the Patek crowd here, particularly)  Then there are the fanatics for vintage Rolex or Panerai limited editions, who enjoy the hyper-minutiae and sharing a latest rare acquisition with their equally obsessed buddies at get-togethers where festivity levels are just slightly less than that of a Roman bacchanalia.   Continue Reading… »

A Plethora Of Watchmaking Seals: Geneva Seal, Patek Philippe Seal, Fleurier Seal, And More

With authenticity and substance becoming ever more important in the messages that watch companies seek to convey to their customers, exclusive seals promising performance, finishing standards, and more are multiplying rapidly.  From Bedat & Co with their AOSC certificate covering the Swiss origin of parts and assembly, to Patek Philippe, which created waves at Baselworld 2009 with their announcement that the Poincon de Geneve (Geneva Seal) is being ditched for a new, and more demanding in-house Patek Philippe Seal, its clear that brands want to differentiate themselves from their competition more than ever. Continue Reading… »

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle Manual-Winding: Dress Watch Perfection From SIHH 2009

Back in August, I expressed my adoring sentiments for the superbly lovely Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle watch.  It hardly seemed possible, but the venerable manufacturer has made a superlative luxury timepiece even better in 2009.  I am of course referring to the new manual-winding version of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle 38mm watch, which was just unveiled at the SIHH exhibition in Geneva this past week.  

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Vacheron Constantin Successfully Enlarges The Malte Tonneau Chronograph

I’m not normally a fan of enlarging appealing watch designs simply for the sake of making a bigger watch–but, sometimes the result is indeed an improvement.  Vacheron Constantin’s new Malte Tonneau Chronograph watch (Ref. 49180) is a good example.  While the established 36mm model is  certainly distinguished and elegant, the broader case of the newcomer gives the tonneau-shaped Malte watch design a more potent, masculine presence.  

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Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921–A Most Charming Time Machine

The just-announced Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 is one of the most charming (and pleasingly eccentric) dress timepieces I have encountered in some time.  A surprisingly faithful reinterpretation of an historical wristwatch which Vacheron Constantin introduced in the early 20th century,  the “Historiques American 1921″ abounds with exquisite details.   Continue Reading… »

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle Watch: Serious Competition For Patek’s Calatrava

Among modern dress watches, my newest object of desire is Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Traditionnelle.  Since regretfully selling off a rose gold Patek Philippe Calatrava (Ref. 5107) a couple years ago, I have been nursing a recurring longing to re-acquire a precious metal strap watch with impeccable horological credentials, timeless design, and an elegance versatile enough to allow for everyday wear.  This particular Vacheron Constantin watch–introduced in 2007–is near perfection in each one of these criteria.

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Vacheron Constantin Skeleton Watches: An Industry Standard For A Rare, Exquisite Art

The exceptional art of open working mechanical movements is practiced by few manufacturers these days.  Of the few companies which can practice this rare technique at the highest level, Vacheron Constantin is considered by many to be the best in the field.  Noted for their intricacy, beauty and hand craftsmanship, each Vacheron Constantin skeleton movement is a unique work of art, which takes shape under the hand of a skilled and irreplaceable artisan.  Each delicate bridge structure is carefully engraved by hand, so that even if Continue Reading… »

Vacheron Constantin Quai de l’Ile Watches–”Watch Out, Patek Philippe!”

In a world where luxury items seem to become increasingly democratized and commoditized, its a relief to find that there are brands who still cater to the art of custom design.  Vacheron Constantin is one such brand, which this year has revealed their stunning Quai de l’Ile watch collection.  In a move which would no doubt please the founders of the ancient Geneva brand which has long been associated with nobility and royalty, this collection offers more than 400 bespoke options.  

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Glorious Vacheron Constantin Diamond Watches

There are diamond-set watches, and then there are diamond-set watches.  For those who demand the absolute best and most rare in the world of haute joaillerie, one of the finest sources of such creations is Vacheron Constantin.  While greatly appreciated by connoisseurs for their extraordinary mechanical complications and the history as a great watchmaker, the house has also specialized in extraordinary creations of dazzling jewelry.  Having long served royal houses and the creme de la creme of society through its 250 year history, Vacheron Constantin can do no less.

Men and women both can enjoy these gem-set masterpieces.  The 45mm Kalla Duchesse Large watch is a tonneau-shaped watch fit for a king, and displays a white gold case and bracelet which literally disappear beneath a glittering carpet of masterfully set-baguette diamonds totaling 58.35 carats in all.  For women, the resplendent Lady Kalla watch is absolutely extraordinary; a similar Vacheron Constantin watch wasowned by Princess Diana. 

The heritage of these extraordinary diamond watches date back to 1979, when Vacheron Constantin created their incomparable jewelry watch masterpiece–the Kallista–which was hewn from a kilogram bar of gold, and set with 118 emerald-cut diamonds (each with their own certificate!) totaling approximately 130 carats.  With an estimated value of well over 9 million dollars, the heritage of this creation shines out in each jeweled Vacheron Constantin watch.�

Vacheron Constantin’s Chronometre Royal 1907 Watch – Exquisite tribute to the past

When you have existed for over 250 years, as the house of Vacheron Constantin has, it is indeed very appropriate having a collection entitled “Historiques”.  As much asany of the renowned haute de gamme watch brands (and perhaps to an even greater degree) history plays a huge part in what makes this Genevan house such a magical name for connoisseurs.

The Vacheron Constantin Chronometre Royal 1907 watch is the newest addition to this collection, and it is fantastic.  Modeled after a legendary Vacheron Constantin pocket watch of the same name, which set a notable standard for precision, reliability, and legibility, this new wristwatch displays some extremely exclusivetechnical features that make it a fantastic demonstration of Vacheron’s expertise in haute horlogerie.

Most immediately notable, is the amazing white dial in genuine grand feu enamel.  Extremely difficult to craft, such dials are considered true artisanal masterworks,and this one is as beautiful as any I have seen recently, made all the better by the lack of any date displaying marring the harmony of its perfectly lustrous surface. At 39mm, the case of the Chronometre Royal 1907 has been ideally proportioned–smaller than yesteryear’s (34-35mm) dress watches, yet not grossly over-sized, the Chronometre Royal 1907 watch case is like Goldilocks’s porridge–”just right”.  I love the fact that the bezel and lugs are polished, while the sides of the pink gold case are given a satin-brushed finish.  The crown is also very elegant, and suits the retro design beautifully.

Finally, the view through the caseback is equally special.  This new Vacheron Constantin watch features the brand’s own, exclusive 2460SCC caliber movement, which is doubly distinguished by having both the coveted Geneva Seal hallmark, and a COSC chronometer certificate.  As you would expect of a Geneva Seal-awarded movement, the finish is superb, and the specially-designed 22K gold rotor is frosting on theproverbial cake, with its open-worked design and satin-finishing.  I am hugely appreciative that Vacheron Constantin engineered this mechanism to have a stop-seconds feature—after all this is a chronometer-certified watch which pays tribute to a historical model noted for its precision.  Not being able to precisely set the watch would detract from this slightly, but the designers didn’t miss a beat here.

It is uncommon to see a modern wristwatch embodying the quality and even more importantly-
-the handcrafted charm—of timepieces from the late 19th and early 20th century. This Vacheron Constantin Chronometre Royal 1907 watch is one of those rare examples; it is truly superb. �