By Adam Keith, Associate Timepiece Editor for ViaLuxe-
In 2008, luxury watchmaker Chronoswiss provided a delight to collectors and fans of the brand by unveiling its own charming interpretation of yet another classical high complication--the classic perpetual calendar with moonphase indication. One year later, Chronoswiss expands its elegant range of Perpetual Calendar watches to include a new white gold variant featuring a versatile and stylish black dial.
As with its model siblings, the 18K white gold Chronoswiss Perpetual Calendar watch measures 40mm excluding its massive onion-style white gold crown. While the case exudes stateliness and classical simplicity, its construction is highly complex, comprising 36 individual pieces. One of many fine details to note are solid bars through the lugs to secure the hand-sewn alligator leather strap with its folding clasp in 18K white gold.
The black dial is crafted from varnished silver and projects the elegance required for formal wear, with the touch of sportiness that works well for times when a more casual attire is appropriate. Suggestive of a grandfather clock, the blued steel hour and minute hands are of Poire-Stuart shape and travel over large white lacquered Roman numeral hour figures. Above the classic moonphase indication at 6 o'clock, are pointer-style subdials for day of the week, the date, and the leap year cycle--all accented with subtle touches of red. The moon phase disc advances gradually over the course of the month in a counter-clockwise direction, and depicts the moon and the stars in gold against a deep blue background.
Animating the Chronoswiss Perpetual Calendar watch is the self-winding C.127 caliber with a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Based on a classic Enicar 165 caliber and elaborated with a Debois-Depraz calendar module comprising some 50 individual components of its own, this mechanism keeps track of day, date, month, and leap year, correcting its calendar indications as needed through the various months and leap year cycles with no intervention from its wearer. The balance wheel beats at the comparatively modest tempo of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour.
Water resistance of the Chronoswiss Perpetual Calendar timepiece is assured to 30 meters, thanks to gaskets in the crown and patented screwed corrector pushers which are directly attached to their tubes. Both front and backsides of the watch are fitted with sapphire crystals, the latter allowing a view of the finely finished movement with its gilt-finished skeleton rotor featuring the Chronoswiss "C" insignia.
More about Chronoswiss:
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