The
Ulysse Nardin GMT +/- Perpetual Calendar watch is a perpetual calendar timepiece that exemplifies with great clarity why Ulysse Nardin is considered such an innovator amongst the great watchmaking houses. Within the classical form of its golden case, the GMT +/- Perpetual Calendar watch showcases a mechanism developed by Ulysse Nardin which makes a simple task out of the often complex setting procedures inherent to the traditional perpetual calendar complication. Indicating day of the week, date, month, and calendar year, the Ulysse Nardin GMT +/- Perpetual Calendar watch will automatically take into account the varying length of months, while allowing for leap years.
What makes this timepiece mechanically different from other fine perpetual calendar watches, is its unique implementation of circular elements (epicycloidal wheels, Maltese crosses, etc.) rather than the levers, cams, and springs employed in traditional perpetual calendar mechanisms, which are considerably more delicate and correspondingly difficult to service. The Ulysse Nardin system, devised by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, enables the calendar to be corrected backwards as well as forwards, a worlds first in a perpetual calendar watch.
Not only is this solution extremely friendly to its wearer, it also prevents any setting-related damage to the mechanism. It should be noted that while heirs of traditional perpetual calendars will be seeking out a watchmaker to perform an adjustment in 2100 due to the vagaries of the Gregorian calendar, the future owners of the Ulysse Nardin GMT +/- Perpetual Calendar will need nothing more than to turn the crown to resynchronize the displays. The calendar indication of primary importance--the date--can be set forward or backwards at will, and its dual-disc construction ensures that it can be easily seen without the need for any magnification. The automatic-winding UN-32 movement which powers all of these functions is meticulously decorated with a 'cotes circulaires' pattern on the bridges, and the white gold rotor which powers the watch to its 48-hour reserve is inlaid with the Ulysse Nardin anchor in rich blue enamel.
The Ulysse Nardin GMT +/- Perpetual Calendar watch is the ideal perpetual calendar timepiece for those who travel frequently, and it features a 24-hour hand which can be set to the wearer's home time. To compensate for the hourly differences of various time zones, the 12-hour hand can be set forward or backwards in one hour jumps by means of the two buttons on the side of the case, one to move forward, and one to move back.
This feature, in concert with the simple calendar adjustments makes the GMT +/- Perpetual Calendar a very useful and practical companion. To ensure that its aesthetic appeal matches its great functionality, the designers at Ulysse Nardin have implemented a great range of fine variations in both 38 and 40 mm case sizes, in 18K white, rose, or yellow gold. Blued steel leaf shaped hands with luminous material are both beautiful and highly visible. Dials range from the classically silvered to the more elaborate guilloche patterns, with pave diamonds being a stunning option for those who appreciate the sparkle of fine gemstones. Depending upon the model, the Ulysse Nardin GMT +/-
Perpetual calendar watch can be ordered on either a matching gold link bracelet, or a thickly padded crocodile strap completed by a deployant buckle in 18K gold.