By Adam Keith, Associate Timepiece Editor for ViaLuxe-
A brilliant haute horlogerie coup for de Grisogono was the 2005 introduction of the Occhio Ripetizione Minuti--a remarkable wristwatch which borrowed the shutter aperture function of a reflex camera to add unprecedented visual dimensions to the technical and aural wonder of the minute repeater complication. Four years later, de Grisogono reintroduces the virtuosic "Queen of Complications" in a resplendent 18K white gold variation that shows off 154 ravishing baguette cut diamonds. The meticulously selected diamonds completely cover the case flanks, strap lugs, and inner bezel, and have a combined weight of no less than eighteen carats.
Like the 2005 debut, the de Grisogono Ladies Occhio Ripetizione Minuti draws its remarkable technique from a mechanical movement conceived by Christophe Claret, one of the watch industry's most ingenious masters of minute repeaters, tourbillons, and other stratospherically difficult watchmaking specialties. Claret's hand-wound caliber showcases an exclusively developed aperture module which operates in exactly the same manner as a reflex camera's shutter. The company notes, however, that the diaphragm sub-assembly offers superior compactness and resistance to that of the camera mechanism.
At any time that the Occhio minute repeater is activated by its owner, a complex system of racks, levers and springs translate the time shown by the hands into an exacting sequence of pleasing notes--hours are indicated by individual low chimes, followed by a high-low combination chimes for the quarters, and finally, a series of high tones for the individual minutes. At the exact moment this sequence unfolds, the twelve titanium blades of the aperture retract, giving an intimate and fascinating view of the mechanism at work during the chime sequence. When the sequence concludes, the blades instantly join together, again becoming a elegant and unassuming backdrop for the dauphine hands in polished white gold.
Six screws precisely affix the caseback of the de Grisogono Ladies Occhio Ripetizione Minuti, protecting the precious movement from the ravages of moisture and dust. A sapphire crystal exhibition window offers its own delights to the connoisseur's eye, including finely polished screw heads and jewel settings, anthracite gray bridges, and black polished hammers. These latter components are another of the minute repeater's most appealing assets, as their precise strikes against the circular gongs are directly responsible for creating the crystalline sounds of the gongs.
Completing this de Grisogono tour de force of the watchmaking and jewelry arts is a matte black strap in hand-sewn alligator leather. A black finish on the white gold triple deployant clasp compliments the blackened white gold bezel decorated with the de Grisogono signature and model designation. Strictly limited in production, the Ladies Occhio Ripetizione Minuti watch is water resistant to 30 meters.
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