By Adam Keith, Associate Timepiece Editor for ViaLuxe-
After launching the stunning and technically unprecedented Chapter One watch in 2008, the new high luxury watchmaking firm of Maitres du Temps kept many watch fanatics and collectors wondering what secrets a second "chapter" would reveal. At Baselworld 2009, that page was turned, and Maitres du Temps introduced Chapter Two--a somewhat more restrained but equally beautiful model presenting its own set of technical surprises. Like its more complex sibling, Chapter Two is a joint effort between several of the world's leading watchmakers, and showcases the signature complex tonneau case in conjunction with unique roller calendar indications.
"Chapter Two is the fruit of a collaboration of very experienced and professional master watchmakers. It is totally unlike anything that any of us would have done alone but is the result of us working together," said Daniel Roth, who worked closely with acclaimed colleagues Peter Speake-Marin and Roger Dubuis to create a timepiece that embodied the demanding combination of elegance, exclusive craftsmanship, and innovative haute horlogerie complications.
Measuring 45mm x 32mm, and standing nine millimeters in height, the complex tonneau-shaped case in 18-karat red gold instantly identifies the Chapter Two as a creation of Maitres du Temps. Comprised of 30 individual parts, the case brings into play six sapphire crystals, including an octagonal one for the caseback exhibition window, and elongated rectangular pieces on both sides for the roller calendar indications. A fascinating array of compound-curve surfaces in conjunction with alternating satin and polished sections leave no doubt as to the immense effort involved in its creation. The same can be said for the curved dial; manufactured from silver, the dial showcases a circular grained satin peripheral area for the numerals, and a stunning engine-turned "sunray" guilloche pattern at the center. Faceted sword-shaped hands in polished red gold compliment the complex yet harmonious dial design. As a whole, the Maitres du Temps Chapter Two watch could be said to evoke tranquility, sophisticated style, and classicism in equal measure.
The Chapter Two also presents an impressive degree of watchmaking sophistication. Most notable are the cylindrical rolling calendar indications for the month and the day, which appear behind their own sapphire crystals above and below the dial itself. They work together with the instantaneously switching large date indicator to offer a clear and technically unprecedented interpretation of the classical triple calendar complication. Adjustment of the date is accomplished by a very discreet pusher directly above the winding crown, which at first glance simply looks like a protective shoulder for the crown. Turning the Chapter Two watch over reveals numerous other delights, including gracefully integrated and highly intuitive corrector buttons for the day and month rollers. These elements in concert with the octagonal display back window and back-oriented sapphire crystals for the roller calendar indications offer up a feast for the eyes just as intriguing as the Chapter Two's lovely face.
Part of this allure is no doubt due to the SHC01 self-winding movement. Displaying hand-decorated bridges with a striking sunray Cotes de Geneve pattern and chamfered edges, SHC01 comprises 382 individual parts, and 32 jewels. Balance frequency is a rapid 28,800 vibrations per hour, and power reserve is 50 hours. Among the greatest challenges for Roth, Speake-Marin, and Roger Dubuis was perfecting the roller calendar and large date displays to ensure that switching of the elements was both fully synchronized and instantaneous.
Peter Speake-Marin shared his own thoughts on this particular aspect of the Chapter Two's creation process: "To ensure sufficient force in the construction of the calendar, the transmission of power through the movement had to be very efficient, consuming minimum power turning the large rollers, so we had to master the horological challenge and use the latest technology. One aspect which was crucial in the design was the fabrication of the rollers in ultra-light material." Ultimately, anodized aluminum was chosen for the fabrication of these components.
Also remarkable for both its intricate beauty and symbolism, is the richly engraved 22K gold winding rotor shaped in the form of a goblet. The phrase "Masters and Their Craft—A Lifelong Pursuit of Excellence" adorns the outer edge of the rotor, a subtle reminder of the considerable collective watchmaking knowledge the Maitres du Temps Chapter Two contains.
"The symbol of the goblet, and for me this is important, is that we are three artisans putting all of our knowledge and love of the craft into this goblet, and in drinking from it, we share the pleasure of creating a wonderful timepiece," said Roger Dubuis.
Click here to access the Maitres du Temps website, and here to learn more about the Maitres du Temps Chapter One.