Watch Buying Guide

Give some real thought to the reason you are buying a fine timepiece. This consideration will guide you towards deciding which criteria are most important in making the right decision. Here are a few primers to get started:

- Will this be your primary timepiece? If so, it needs to suit your overall lifestyle. (business, active-sports, etc.)
- Are you a collector? If so, are you wishing to acquire something that augments your collection in a certain way?
- Are you buying by brand, price, aesthetics, or functionality? (it could be any combination of these factors)
- Are you attempting to match or coordinate your timepiece with other items you wear? (jewelry, ring, glasses, belts, shoes, etc.)

HOW TO SELECT THE WATCH MATERIAL
There are two primary decisions to make when choosing the type of materials your watch will be made of--that which the watch case is crafted from, and that of the strap or band. Do you want your timepiece to be a steel watch, a gold watch, a titanium watch, or even something exotic like ceramic or carbon? The most popular watch cases are steel, a steel and gold combination, gold, titanium, and platinum. The type of metal you choose will determine the price of the watch. As a rule, steel watches are the most affordable.

Steel Watches
The majority (80%+) of all fine Swiss watches are made of steel. Steel is the most accessible and easily available material for watch manufacturers. Steel watches are extremely durable and are usually a watch collector's first watch.

See examples:
Omega Seamaster
Tag Heuer Carrera
Bell & Ross BR 01

Steel And Gold Watches
Steel and gold watches are somewhat more expensive than all steel watches as they contain some gold. Most steel and gold watches feature a steel case with a gold bezel and/or other accents in the precious metal. They are known by many as "two-tone" watches.

See examples:
Bedat Ref 888
Bulgari Assioma
Corum Romulus

Gold Watches
Gold watches are significantly more expensive than steel watches due to the high per-ounce cost of gold. Gold watches require more careful maintenance than steel equivalents because gold is a much softer metal. Once scratched, gold watches require a professional to refinish them to their original standard. As one would expect, gold watches are typically much heavier than steel watches, so consider the weight of the watch when choosing what is ideal for your needs. If you are shopping for a gold watch you are not limited to traditional yellow gold: white gold, rose gold, pink gold and red gold, are but a few of the 18-karat alloys in common use today. However, the most popular gold watches tend to be made of either the white or yellow varieties.

See examples:
IWC Portuguese Perpetual
Ulysse Nardin Freak
Zenith Baby Doll Open Elite

Platinum Watches
Platinum watches are even more costly than gold watches because platinum is significantly more rare and therefore more valuable than gold. Platinum is the most expensive of the precious metals and while it might appear like steel or white gold from a distance or to the untrained eye, platinum has unique visual attributes which distinguish it from either of these materials. Because of its purity (.950), platinum is even heavier than the 18-karat gold alloys used for watches. As with gold, it's a good idea to consider weight when shopping for a platinum watch.

See examples:
Vacheron Constantin Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Breguet Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar

Titanium Watches
Titanium is a hi-tech, ultra-lightweight and very strong material that was developed for the aerospace industry. If you appreciate low weight in a wristwatch, titanium is a nearly perfect material choice. It is also hypoallergenic, being employed in the medical field for such applications as hip and knee replacements. As such, it is a great material for those whose skin is sensitive to metal, particularly those metals with potentially irritating alloys. One minor drawback to titanium is its comparative vulnerability to fine scratching.

See examples:
IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000
Corum Admirals Cup Competition 48


HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT SIZE OF WATCH FOR MY WRIST?
Watches come in a wide variety of sizes. The size of a watch typically refers to the diameter of the case, and is expressed in millimeters. Until the 1990s, watches tended to be small (by today’s standards) as watch designers continued to express the traditions of wristwatch design dating back many decades. A highly noticeable watch industry trend over the last 10-15 years has been greatly expanded case sizes of well over 40 millimeters. It is important to note that men’s watches are usually 20-40% larger than women’s watches. A typical men's watch today is 38-42mm, while a typical women’s watch is 30-38mm. It is also important to consider the case thickness, or the “height” of a watch case when shopping for your timepiece. Watches with large or extra-large cases tend to be thicker which means that the case sits noticeably higher on your wrist. While some love the look and find nothing objectionable about fit, others may find this top-heaviness uncomfortable. Extremely tall watches can also be challenging to fit under shirt cuffs, should you dress up frequently for work or pleasure.

Small watch case
26-32mm

Medium watch case
32-38mm

Large watch case
38-42mm

Extra Large watch case
42+mm


HOW TO PICK THE RIGHT CASE SHAPE?
Watches are made in a variety of shapes. These shapes include round, square, tonneau, rectangular, cushion, and oval. The most popular case shape is round as over 70% of all Swiss watches are made with a round case. After round, the most popular case shape is rectangular, also referred to by many as the tank shape. Tonneau-shaped watches have a curved profile on the outside edge of the case, which resembles a barrel (the word tonneau means "barrel" in French). This tonneau shape is most often used for dress watches, complicated watches and women’s watches. Square watches are similar to rectangular watches, but are somewhat less prevalent. The square shape was used to design classic dress watches in the early 1900’s. Recently, the square shape has become quite popular in larger sizes to create a more avant garde and progressive look.

Round watches feature cases designed around the symbolic shape of the circle. Chronograph timepieces usually display round subdials on their dials, as well. The majority of popular men’s sports and dress watches have round cases. (Click here to find round shaped watches)

Rectangular watches have a rectangular form case with the longer edges running on the vertical plane. Any pushers (chronograph or otherwise) are usually located on the right side of the case. (Click here to find rectangular shaped watches)

Tonneau-shaped watches have curved edges on the right and left sides of the watch case. The tonneau design is a classic one that until the recent introduction of “edgy” watches like Franck Muller was considered a more conservative shape. (Click here to find tonneau shaped watches)

Square-shaped watches designs are symmetrical and are often found in women’s watches and dress watches. Square watches have also been increasingly used for large and extra-large men's timepieces. (Click here to find square shaped watches)

Cushion-shaped watch designs are typically used for more expensive timepieces and women’s watches. The cushion design resembles a square with rounded edges on all four sides. As a result, the case bears a resemblance to a cushion you might find accompanying a couch, for example. (Click here to find cushion shaped watches)

Oval-shaped watches have an elliptical shape that is oriented sideways or vertically, depending upon the design. Oval-shaped designs are usually found in higher end watches and women’s watches, particularly those adorned with diamonds and other precious gemstones. (Click here to find oval shaped watches)

HOW HEAVY IS THE WATCH I'M BUYING?
The weight of a watch can vary significantly depending on the case metal, the size of the case, the case shape and the type of strap or bracelets. As a general rule, the smaller the watch case the lighter the watch for any given metal. Another general rule to keep in mind, is that watches with leather or rubber straps are less massive than those fitted with a metal bracelet.


WHICH WATCHES ARE EASIEST TO TAKE CARE OF?
When considering how easy it is to take care of your watch you should first note the two main types of watch movements: quartz and mechanical. A watch with a quartz movement will require less maintenance than a mechanical watch because it is powered by a battery and therefore does need to be worn or wound to operate. If you are buying a mechanical watch, note that, as a general rule, the more complications (functions beyond telling the time) a watch has, the more demanding it will be. For example a typical automatic watch will have only a single complication which is the date that needs to be set, whereas a GMT (or dual time zone watch) will require that you set the date, and two time zones. Extremely complex watches such as tourbillons, perpetual calendars, or minute repeaters are the most demanding that their owners be well versed in proper operating procedures and observant of regular service regimens.


HOW TO CHOOSE A WATCH STRAP?
There are several different types of watch straps or bands. Consider your stylistic requirements, as well as your lifestyle when choosing the ideal material for a watch strap.

Leather Watch Straps
Leather straps are made from buffalo or calfskin and come in different qualities, thickness, and colors. Leather straps can also have different colored stitching. Leather straps can range in price from $100 to $450 and are generally the most affordable type of watch strap. Leather straps are soft and comfortable to wear but tend to absorb sweat or moisture more than rubber or metal straps.

Crocodile/Alligator Watch Straps
Crocodile or alligator watch straps are rarer and more expensive than leather straps as they are made from reptile skin. Crocodile straps tend to be stiffer than leather straps as the material is thicker and more rigid. Crocodile straps, like leather straps, also tend to absorb moisture, making them more vulnerable in hot or humid climates.

Rubber Watch Straps
Rubber watch straps are relatively affordable compared to leather, crocodile or steel watch straps/bands. Rubber straps will not fit on all watches as they tend to be somewhat thicker than other types of straps. Rubber straps are usually--but not always--employed on sports watches, as they are extremely well-suited for water activities, diving, and other activities which expose the watch to considerable moisture.


HOW TO PICK A WATCH FOR YOUR BUDGET:
This is influenced by such factors as brand pedigree, the precious metals or gemstones involved, and the complexity or hand-finishing of mechanical movements. As a general rule, luxury watches might be categorized in these broad categories:

Entry level luxury watches: $1-3,000
Mid priced luxury watches: $3-10,000
Expensive luxury watches: $10-20,000
Very expensive luxury watches: $20,000+